Show anyone this photo and I will hunt you down.
So the toile of my Butterick B5605 dress is finished. Yeah – it’s running big. Actually, this has been my most interesting toile experience to date. What did I learn?
- How to sew a kimono sleeve. Accurately and patiently. (More details in another post.)
- That Melissa of Fehr Trade was right when she suggested that the bow detail on the back might be OTT. It was.
- That I enjoyed the process of construction on these three quarter length sleeves, but that I’m going to go for a short sleeve in the final version.
- That the bodice is waaaay big.
You know the routine by now. Once my toile is complete, my tutor swoops in like Sewing Superwoman and starts making adjustments.
Bearing in mind my past issues with a narrow upper chest, that’s where we started. Ten plus dart adjustments later, we had a dress that looked less like a sack. Here’s a glimpse of some of the front bodice darts and just how much ease we were taking out:
As you can see, we don’t necessarily adjust at seam lines. Gillian is a big fan of tweaking and pinching wherever feels right. Once we were happy with these adjustments, I climbed out of the dress and began transferring these changes to my pattern pieces. I’ve given you a glimpse of this before, but here’s a more detailed step-by-step. (All the photos don’t follow the very same dart because, well, I’m a bit crap! But you’ll get the idea.)
1. Take a pencil and mark dashes down either side of the dart adjustment, following the line of the pins:
2. Once you’re happy with your markings, take the pins out and open up your new dart:
3. Lay your original pattern piece over this section and trace the markings:
4. Now pinch out this ease from your paper pattern:
5. And use masking tape to seal your adjusted pattern! (Masking tape can be peeled away without tearing the paper, should you make a mistake.)
That’s your lot! I’ve cut a second set of bodice pieces using my adjusted pattern and am going to make second bodice toile. These adjustments are so numerous and significant that I want to be absolutely sure before slicing into the rose cotton.
One last thought: a petticoat is definitely in order with this full skirt. To buy one or make one, to buy one or make one… If you know of any good petticoat patterns, do point me in the right direction!