Patch Pocket For The Minoru Jacket – Tutorial

Ian made us a downloadable PDF template!

Hey, guys! Sorry the tutorial took a bit of time coming to you. That’s because my lovely boyfriend was making us a downloadable template in between his Open University studies. What an angel! Click the link below and it’s all yours. A big thank you to Ian.

Now, on to the tutorial-type stuff…

YOU WILL NEED

  • Interfacing
  • Two patches of fashion fabric
  • Two patches of lining fabric
  • Beeswax for your thread (optional)
  • Needle and thread
  • A printer to print off the didyoumakethat pocket pdf template for a patch pocket.

INSTRUCTIONS

Print off your PDF template. Be sure to measure your 40x40mm square to ensure that the sizing is correct. For accurate sizing, at the printing stage please select ‘None’ in the scaling options:

Cut out your templates and overlap the two pieces of the patch pocket template at the dashed line. Tape together.

Use the larger template to cut out two pieces of your fashion fabric and two pieces of your fusible interfacing or interlining. I used a heavy weight fusible interfacing bought from MacCulloch and Wallis. With an iron, press the interfacing onto the wrong side if your fashion fabric.

Turn over and press a 1.5cm seam allowance along the top of the pocket piece and partially down the side seams. Mitre each corner. There’s a tutorial on mitred corners here. Press.

Fold the patch pocket in half lengthways, wrong sides together and sew down the centre, following the solid lines marked on your PDF. This sewn line should be about 50mm in from the fold. Carefully open the pleat out (as you would with a Sorbetto top!) and press flat, using a pressing cloth. Hand sew down each top corner of the pleat. You can see details of where I’ve sewn shut the top of my pleat in the photo below.

Mitred corner and pleat detail

Press in a 15mm seam on the side seams and bottom seam, including turning under the bottom of the pleat. At each curved corner use a series of small running stitches to gather each corner seam. Pull nice and tight and sew a couple of anchoring stitches, knot off. The tighter the pulled stitches, the smoother the final curve.

Hand stitch the side and bottom seams closed with a flat catch stitch.

Flat Catch Stitch

The front of your patch pocket is made!

Now cut out your lining fabric using the pocket lining template. Press over a hem on your pocket lining. I used silk for my pocket lining and it feels gorgeous every single time I slip my hands into my pocket!

Pin lining to the rear of the patch pocket and hand sew in place, using an almost invisible Even Slipstitch.

Now you’re ready to attach your patch pockets to the front of your Minoru Jacket. I positioned mine with the inside pocket edges (ie those closest to the zip) 55mm in from the plackett and 55mm down from the bottom elastic line. Pin in place.

Run your coordinating thread through beeswax and press to seal the beeswax in. This will make your thread much stronger, which is important for the strain pockets take. Hand sew your patch pocket on, again using Even Slipstitch. Do not pull your stitches too tight or the pocket will pucker. Bring the slipstitch in by 6mm over each top corner of the pockets for reinforcement. If you have a copy of The Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing refer to pages 236-238 for excellent guidance on patch pockets.

You’re done! If you’re interested to know how the hand stitching holds up to daily wear, here are my pockets one month after fairly solid wear:

I hope this helps some of you. Thank you, yet again, to Sewaholic for a truly wonderful pattern.

This entry was posted in sewing, sewing and knitting, Uncategorized and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

21 Responses to Patch Pocket For The Minoru Jacket – Tutorial

  1. Portia says:

    Eeeep, top notch tutorial Karen! I don’t have the minoru so now I’m trying to think of something that needs a patch pocket! Your (herringbone?) handstitching is so perfect!! So neat!
    Px

  2. Felicity from Down Under says:

    fantastic, thank you; and thank you to Ian. Winter is approaching here. Do I need a jacket? If I did, it would certainly need pockets. Hm. Much food for thought as well as eye candy.

  3. nothy lane says:

    Your Minoru jacket looks great. It definitely needs pockets. I’m going to use your pocket pattern and hand sew them on as you suggest. I’m a bit nervous about the handsewing but yours have held up, so I’ll give it a try.

  4. KristenMakes says:

    Awesome tutorial! Love the pocket detail so much!

  5. Great Karen, thanks for sharing this with us! I’ve got the Minoru pattern, and want nice big pockets for it (so I’ve bookmarked this for reference ta :)). It’s a toss up between your patch-pockets or these ones from Sophia Sews: Minoru Jacket: Adding Pockets , where she’s added-in a new vertical seam between the bottom of the waist and the hemline – and into that inserted in-seam pockets. Hmmmm… maybe I’ll do both! Side-seam pockets lined with fleecy-stuff to keep my hands warm + patch pockets on-top to dump all my bits ‘n’ bobs in :D (yay! )

  6. I’ll be making this jacket next autumn (should give me enough time to find the perfect fabric) and will keep this in my ‘Minoru advice’ folder. Nice job from Ian too!.

    Never knew that beeswax strengthens thread.

  7. Felicity from Down Under says:

    I was wondering, though, was it difficult sewing through that many layers? It looks quite bulky.

  8. Very cool. I like the look of the peat from the front, it’s a nice detail.

  9. Anne W says:

    Well done. With that canvas interfacing, trim it short so that it doesn’t go into your seam allowances. It will make it easier for you to do the corners without all that bulk. Looks great tho.

  10. Elizabeth says:

    Great tutorial! Your boyfriend is a catch!

  11. Alessa says:

    Those pockets look great, thanks for the tutorial!

  12. The Sewist says:

    Lovely pockets! Can I be cheeky and giv eyou alink to my mitred corner tute? It’s simpler than the one you linked to in the post and ned up with very little bulk. http://parasombra.wordpress.com/2010/05/07/how-to-sew-a-mitred-corner-aka-upcycled-hankies/

  13. bela s. says:

    Thank you for the tutorial and template. I originally inserted side seam pockets into my Minoru, but I was not fond of them. I will restitch the side seams and use the patch pocket instead. I also think your pocket treatment really adds something to the front of this coat that to me seemed pretty blah compared to the pretty gathered back.

  14. Pingback: Minoru Jacket – The Undoubted Star of 2012 | Did You Make That?

  15. Pingback: Simple Patch Pockets » LoveSewing magazine

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s