Ian made us a downloadable PDF template!
Hey, guys! Sorry the tutorial took a bit of time coming to you. That’s because my lovely boyfriend was making us a downloadable template in between his Open University studies. What an angel! Click the link below and it’s all yours. A big thank you to Ian.
Now, on to the tutorial-type stuff…
YOU WILL NEED
- Two patches of fashion fabric
- Two patches of lining fabric
- Beeswax for your thread (optional)
- Needle and thread
- A printer to print off the didyoumakethat pocket pdf template for a patch pocket.
Print off your PDF template. Be sure to measure your 40x40mm square to ensure that the sizing is correct. For accurate sizing, at the printing stage please select ‘None’ in the scaling options:
Cut out your templates and overlap the two pieces of the patch pocket template at the dashed line. Tape together.
Use the larger template to cut out two pieces of your fashion fabric and two pieces of your fusible interfacing or interlining. I used a heavy weight fusible interfacing bought from MacCulloch and Wallis. With an iron, press the interfacing onto the wrong side if your fashion fabric.
Turn over and press a 1.5cm seam allowance along the top of the pocket piece and partially down the side seams. Mitre each corner. There’s a tutorial on mitred corners here. Press.
Fold the patch pocket in half lengthways, wrong sides together and sew down the centre, following the solid lines marked on your PDF. This sewn line should be about 50mm in from the fold. Carefully open the pleat out (as you would with a Sorbetto top!) and press flat, using a pressing cloth. Hand sew down each top corner of the pleat. You can see details of where I’ve sewn shut the top of my pleat in the photo below.
Mitred corner and pleat detail
Press in a 15mm seam on the side seams and bottom seam, including turning under the bottom of the pleat. At each curved corner use a series of small running stitches to gather each corner seam. Pull nice and tight and sew a couple of anchoring stitches, knot off. The tighter the pulled stitches, the smoother the final curve.
Hand stitch the side and bottom seams closed with a flat catch stitch.
Flat Catch Stitch
The front of your patch pocket is made!
Now cut out your lining fabric using the pocket lining template. Press over a hem on your pocket lining. I used silk for my pocket lining and it feels gorgeous every single time I slip my hands into my pocket!
Pin lining to the rear of the patch pocket and hand sew in place, using an almost invisible Even Slipstitch.
Now you’re ready to attach your patch pockets to the front of your Minoru Jacket. I positioned mine with the inside pocket edges (ie those closest to the zip) 55mm in from the plackett and 55mm down from the bottom elastic line. Pin in place.
Run your coordinating thread through beeswax and press to seal the beeswax in. This will make your thread much stronger, which is important for the strain pockets take. Hand sew your patch pocket on, again using Even Slipstitch. Do not pull your stitches too tight or the pocket will pucker. Bring the slipstitch in by 6mm over each top corner of the pockets for reinforcement. If you have a copy of The Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing refer to pages 236-238 for excellent guidance on patch pockets.
You’re done! If you’re interested to know how the hand stitching holds up to daily wear, here are my pockets one month after fairly solid wear:
I hope this helps some of you. Thank you, yet again, to Sewaholic for a truly wonderful pattern.