I’ve discovered that when underlining with silk organza, any raw seams that aren’t flat catch stitched down can look like the above – fraying and unfinished. This is the centre back seam of the skirt section of my dress, extending down below the zip.
I really didn’t want to hem my dress, knowing that this unravelling silk organza was only a peek away. Even though a full lining is being added to my dress, I’d still know this mess was here. It seemed such a shame, after all the effort I’d made. Plus, I’ll be honest, I dreaded anyone turning my dress hem over to see raw, fraying silk organza.
Now that more people know I make my own clothes, I’ve had the odd occasion when a person forgets to ask permission before turning over my hems, or poking fingers down my necklines. I don’t mind overly. I know it’s because curiosity has got the better of someone and that they don’t mean to be rude. But, still. I like to be prepared!
Out came my reference books. Nothing! So, out came the Internet. Result! On my first search, a wonderful piece from Pattern Review came up, posted by Julie B with great detail shots. An answer to my dilemma! Julie suggests adding extra width to your organza seam allowances so that you can turn them over the fashion fabric seam and seal with a line of sewing – a bit like a Hong Kong finish. Keeping up? No? Go and read her post.
I was too far into my make to have added extra allowance to the silk organza cutting, but I did have a generous seam allowance. So I set to with my scissors, pins and thread…
I trimmed my fashion fabric to a narrower seam allowance than the silk organza underlining, and did my best to trim the frays from the organza:
I pressed the silk organza over and over again, and pinned along the fashion fabric seam. The good news with silk organza is that it holds a pressed fold really well.
Then I sewed! If you’re doing this, please be careful to keep your seam well away from the skirt itself. You don’t want to sew through your skirt. (Yes, that is the voice of experience talking. Heed it!)
It’s not the neatest sewing I’ve ever done, but doesn’t that look better? I’m certain it will add to the longevity of the make, also.
Phew! That was me really playing it by ear. I know many more experienced Sewists than I are out there. Any other hints and tips? What do you normally do with underlined seams?
Thank you, Julie, whoever you are! Thank goodness for the Internet – again.