I’m working on Tilly’s Mathilde blouse, adding the tucks. Well, I say I’m working – this is the first time in over a week that I’ve touched my sewing machine. How did that happen?
With these tucks, don’t think you can wing it, eyeball it or fudge it. You’ll want to measure carefully and, if you have the patience, I might even recommend some practice goes on scraps of fabric. I didn’t bother and had to use my seam ripper on fabric that really retains puncture holes, which is a shame, but there you have it. I learned the hard way!
Once you’ve sewn your first tuck, it becomes much easier to place the others. I found it easiest to make a chalk mark 1.5cm away from my sewn line and then another mark 3cm along from that. Tuck lines established, ready to be pinned and sewn!
I’d devote a good hour to each set of tucks on either side of the front bodice. Embrace Slow Sewing. This step is tricky and time-consuming, but once these are done Tilly promises that we’re off and running. I believe her!
Let’s talk fabric choice for a moment. I would urge caution around using silks or anything slippery. My fabric is gorgeous but challenging to work with. A voile would be super-perfect – The Village Haberdashery stocks gorgeous voiles here. I have some of this fabric and can attest to its softness and drape, combined with an opaqueness which means you wouldn’t need to underline for a blouse. Result!
I haven’t done a toile of my Mathilde, so this may become a wearable muslin. Or not. Only time will tell… I’m curious. Do you always make a toile/muslin, sometimes make one, or never bother? Vote in the poll below! (For new Sewists, a ‘toile’ (UK term) or ‘muslin’ (US term) is a practice go of a pattern, usually in calico, that allows you to judge and adjust fit. You then transfer those adjustments to your pattern pieces, prior to commencing with the real make.)