The Minoru Jacket collar has a hooded variation. The hood can be zipped away inside the collar. Here are a couple of tips, based on past experience.
The collar pattern piece has a dotted rectangle that gives you placement for the window where the zip will go. The pattern recommends an 18 inch closed zipper for the collar. BUT on both of my makes, I’ve found that the window marked on the pattern piece is too big for an 18 inch zipper. You either need to buy a bigger zipper or make a shorter window. I’m telling you this so that you don’t have to recut a piece and resew a window, as I did – on both makes! (What was I saying about my addled brain in yesterday’s post…)
For accurate marking of where to sew the window, I really recommend a tracing wheel and carbon paper:
And when sewing a long, thin column don’t start at a corner, where it will be difficult to accurately begin and end your sewing on that 45 degree angle. Start somewhere down one of the main lines of sewing. It will be much easier to negotiate corners and neatly finish your sewing!
Next, is a really important tip for the zipped collar on a Minoru jacket. Finish all of your collar pieces before constructing the collar, including the bottom of the hood. I can’t emphasise this enough! I finished mine on my overlocker.
Why is this so important? Well, it’s an odd quirk of the Minoru pattern that inside the finished zipped collar are left a load of raw seams:
Yes, that’s the inside of my zipped collar on my first Minoru. Happy with it, I am not. But if you’re new to the Minoru (as I was), you won’t know that this is how the seams finish up inside your zipped collar – raw and, sometimes, visible. By the time you do notice this detail, it’s so far into construction that you’re unlikely to get the seam ripper out without weeping.
But this is the advantage of second makes. Finish your collar edges before construction! This is some of the best advice I can give you, on an otherwise near-perfect pattern.
Finally, because of several requests, a gratuitous Ella photograph:
Courtesy of Amanda Herbert Photography