Minoru Jacket Collar

Minoru Jacket Collar

The Minoru Jacket collar has a hooded variation. The hood can be zipped away inside the collar. Here are a couple of tips, based on past experience.

The collar pattern piece has a dotted rectangle that gives you placement for the window where the zip will go. The pattern recommends an 18 inch closed zipper for the collar. BUT on both of my makes, I’ve found that the window marked on the pattern piece is too big for an 18 inch zipper. You either need to buy a bigger zipper or make a shorter window. I’m telling you this so that you don’t have to recut a piece and resew a window, as I did – on both makes! (What was I saying about my addled brain in yesterday’s post…)

For accurate marking of where to sew the window, I really recommend a tracing wheel and carbon paper:


And when sewing a long, thin column don’t start at a corner, where it will be difficult to accurately begin and end your sewing on that 45 degree angle. Start somewhere down one of the main lines of sewing. It will be much easier to negotiate corners and neatly finish your sewing!


Next, is a really important tip for the zipped collar on a Minoru jacket. Finish all of your collar pieces before constructing the collar, including the bottom of the hood. I can’t emphasise this enough! I finished mine on my overlocker.



Why is this so important? Well, it’s an odd quirk of the Minoru pattern that inside the finished zipped collar are left a load of raw seams:


Yes, that’s the inside of my zipped collar on my first Minoru. Happy with it, I am not. But if you’re new to the Minoru (as I was), you won’t know that this is how the seams finish up inside your zipped collar – raw and, sometimes, visible. By the time you do notice this detail, it’s so far into construction that you’re unlikely to get the seam ripper out without weeping.

But this is the advantage of second makes. Finish your collar edges before construction! This is some of the best advice I can give you, on an otherwise near-perfect pattern.

Finally, because of several requests, a gratuitous Ella photograph:


Courtesy of Amanda Herbert Photography

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30 Responses to Minoru Jacket Collar

  1. Rosie Martin says:

    Loving the fabrics you chose Karen, especially the scribbly black (navy?) outer fabric. What company is this pattern by? Loving the pup too! Rosie xx

  2. Rosie Martin says:

    Ah brilliant competition, I hope you win. Looks like they have some lovely fabrics xx

  3. Nessa says:

    I am desperate to know the origin of your lining fabric – I just love leaves, especially long thin ones! I’ll check out tessuti just in case it comes from there too. P.S You look so sweet in that photo!!

  4. Marie says:

    I remember you saying about the raw edges in the Minoru hood the first time around, but I still find it baffling! Tasia’s so meticulous, so I’m surprised. Thanks for the tips though, it’s so good to know this stuff early on. Your new Minoru’s looking fab by the way and I’m loving the picture of you and Ella!

  5. Kat says:

    Oooh I’m loving the fabric combinations on this Minoru 🙂

  6. I’ve soooo bookmarked this for when I make a Minoru too – thanks for the tips Karen 🙂

  7. Salma says:

    I was working on my minoru jacket collar piece the whole day yesterday and I agree, the 18 inch zipper is too small! I did not think to finish the bottom seam of my hood (I also lined it). Excellent advice and synchronous timing!

  8. Love the navy and orange – it’s one of my favourite combinations! And as always ella is adorable!

  9. CGCouture says:

    Love the fun pop of color on the hood! And thanks for the tips on this, I am going to make one of these pretty soon, but I’m hoping mine will be more like a “raincoat” (assuming it ever decides to rain here again). It is strange that there isn’t some sort of finishing on that area, as you said, Tasia is usually very picky about that sort of thing.

  10. sewbusylizzy says:

    Love the colour combination! Thus is going to be a knockout.
    I agree about the hood, I was also surprised when I made the Miniru how messy the inside of the hood was!

  11. Gjeometry says:

    Looking gorgeous! I love this pattern, and thanks for the tips for when I feel experienced enough to try and sew this.

  12. Amanda says:

    Yes, thanks for this tip, Karen! I’d love to make a Minoru at some point and I had read that others also lined this part to hide the raw edges. Your photo showing the inside is really helpful. I’m a big fan of Tasia’s so I too am surprised she didn’t catch this!

  13. poppykettle says:

    I definitely recognise that fabric… it’s everywhere right now, and I’m not complaining! It’s gorgeous. Looking forward to seeing the finished Minoru Mark II 🙂

  14. velosewer says:

    Great use of two gorgeous fabrics. Making a second minoru is more rewarding than the first, isn’t it?

  15. Adrienne says:

    Could you and Ella be any cuter? I vote a picture of Ella should conclude each of your posts from now on. You’ll be like the sewing version of Cooking with Dog.

    Also: We want to see your Minoru! It seems soooo beautiful…

  16. I blame the fact that my colour vision is remarkably dodgy, but against that lovely orange lining fabric, the Tessuti fabric appears brown to me! All the same, whether it’s brown or blue, it’s lovely and contrast is wonderful. I also am looking forward to seeing the finished Minoru. It will be beautiful.

  17. Diane says:

    No such thing as a gratuitous picture of Ella! The jacket is lovely but waaaaayyyyyy above my skill level (see my Sewlotion – hint hint). I’ll remember about the edges when I get there in about 5 to 10 years time!

  18. sallie says:

    Thanks for the tips!! This jacket has been on my “to make” list for awhile so I will definitely be keeping your Minoru experience in mind if I ever go there!

  19. Thea says:

    I hear you with the zipper – I had to order a longer one, but then it went in without a protest (new zipper foot, wooo!). I’ll also now go back and finish my hood seam allowances. I’m thinking of some navy bias tape I still have lying around… this will be tonights job! I love your new Minoru, and your optimism that it’ll ever warm up again here. Fingers crossed for lots of nice weather so you can wear your Minoru out!

  20. Roobeedoo says:

    Oh my word – that’s looking amazing!
    And the final photo is one of the best I have seen of you – that’s your clever sister at work again isn’t it?
    What’s that skirt you are wearing? Fab fabric!

  21. Elizabeth says:

    Excellent tips! Thanks!

  22. ellecsews says:

    Thank you, you have perfect timing. I finally bought the Minoru pattern, I can’t wait to start it. Damn life and various responsibilities, like baby showers, birthdays, housekeeping, work etc. They are all conspiring against me to keep me from starting my jacket.

    PS-Ella is adorable, Barney, Max, Jasper, Ricky and Karma say hey.

  23. carole says:

    Hi just finishing up my minoru jacket. I dont have an overlocker so I pressed all the seam allowances for the collar and hood down so that they are all hidden inside the jacket body. Prob a sewing no-no but it all looks very neat and tidy.

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