First, we’re going to sew down our false fly extension. Press the extension to one side and baste across the top edge.
We’re then told to top stitch the fly down with two rows of stitching. I found this a tiny bit fiddly and I’ve detailed my process in the four-photo collage below.
- I chalked the bottom of my sewing line through the dot we marked with a tailor’s tack.
- I sewed the first line of top stitching from the reverse. (You’ll want to be confident of your bobbin tension if you’re going to do the same – you don’t want wonky bobbin stitches showing on the right side of your make.)
- After that, I sewed the second line of top stitching from the right side, using my first line of top stitching as a guide.
- The fourth photo below shows you the top stitching from the reverse – it was impossible to photograph from the right side! It’s not the best stitching I’ve ever done, but hey – who’s gonna be staring at my crotch!
One false fly extension completed!
Next, adding buttonholes to the waistband. The pattern instructions suggest adding patches of interfacing to the rear of your buttonholes and I strongly endorse this step. It makes a big difference to the quality and longevity of your buttonholes.
My other top tip is to practise your buttonholes before starting work on your waistband. See below – there’s a significant difference between my first test buttonhole (left) and my second (right). You’re not just testing your machine’s efficiency, you’re easing yourself into the process. Please, please do this!
Then I marked my buttonhole placement on my waistband, and added patches of interfacing. If you pink the edges of your patches – that zig zag pattern – it helps prevent a severe demarkation showing through on the right side of your fabric when those patches are pressed.
The only step left is to make your buttonholes and open them up. I use my seam ripper in two or three steps across the length of the buttonhole. How do you open yours up?