Having made our buttonholes, we can now attach the waistband to the main shell. First, press over a 1cm seam on the long edge that doesn’t have the buttonholes near it. I do like to have a tape measure to hand as eyeballing it doesn’t really work for me. (Oh, how I lie! I’m always eyeballing stuff! Do as I say, not as I do.)
Now, sew the short side seam, right sides together, and press open. I have no idea why one of my seams is pinked and the other isn’t.
Now we pin the raw, unpressed edge of the waistband to our pants, matching up those notches and ensuring that your buttonholes sit neatly above your centre front. As ever, the instruction’s illustrations really help.
Take your work to the sewing machine and sew the waistband to your pants along these pinned edges. You want a nice smooth finish. No little tucks or ripples. Perfection. Oh dear…
When I took my work off the machine I spotted this little tuck. Oh, no one will notice, I told myself. It doesn’t matter. Then I gave myself a good shake, unpicked the few stitches around this tuck, smoothed the fabric out and resewed that 1 cm stretch. It took two minutes to address this – two minutes! Perfection is usually elusive, I find, but we can at least dream and aspire.
Next, we trim those raw seams on the inside of the waistband attachment.
Press your seams up towards the waistband. You want your fabric to be nice and flat and behaving itself for the next stage. Fold over the waistband and pin in place along the seam. Accuracy is important here, as we are prepping our waistband for ‘stitching in the ditch’. (You’ll learn all about this in the next blog post.) You want to be really sure that your folded edge is lying over the seam you’ve just sewn. I find it easiest to pin thus:
As I work, I’ll turn my waistband over to be extra sure that those pins are piercing the seam line. Yep! My placement is accurate. Can you see the shaft of the pins travelling along the seam line? That’s what we want.
For extra confidence, Sewaholic suggests hand basting this work in place once you’ve done all you’re pinning. I concur! I find stitching in the ditch to be a less than elegant process, if I’m honest, and I want to do everything I can to make sure I don’t foul up. So out come my beautiful basting threads. (You don’t need special basting thread if you don’t have it – this is just a particular weakness of mine.)
Okay. Now we’re ready to stitch in the ditch, insert our elastic, hem the legs to our chosen length and then … we’re done! And not a moment too soon.
I told you I’m a deadline fiend.