I’ve made a winter jacket, from the Burda 7020 pattern!
I have plans to make a coat, but thought I’d make it up as a jacket first. Just, you know, to check fit and process. I was going to make a toile, but then thought, Oh, I have that wool taking up space in my stash. Why not just have a practice run through? Toiles are so very dull, aren’t they?
I chose this pattern because I wanted something really simple that just did the job it was meant to. Nice, big, cosy collar to keep off cold winds, buttoning up to the chin, pockets… Really didn’t need or want any more than that! And this jacket is soooo cosy, made from 100 per cent wool. When was the last time you checked the fibre content in a high street coat or jacket? Go on, have a look.
There was a lot of work that went into this make not covered in the pattern instructions. The pattern would say, ‘Make buttonholes’ or suggest sleeve insertion with no mention of shoulder pads. For a truly successful make, you need a little more than that. Thank goodness for the Internet.
Clockwise from top left: adding heavy weight fusible interfacing to facing and inside front of jacket, marking buttonhole placement with chalk; opening up rear of bound buttonholes;thread tracing placement of buttonholes and sewing closed the lips of final buttonholes; adding back stay
The fabric was kindly gifted to me by Tilly and the Buttons. It’s a really lovely wool with quite a loose weave, a navy base and a raised black diagonal stripe. I am a big fan of the combination of navy and black when it can be made to work. Warmer than a straight black, and so adaptable.
I used my e-book to make the button holes, making sure to follow my own orders to have a practice go first. How glad I am! Practice button holes, first to last, in order of construction from left to right:
Part of the reason it’s so important to practice first – other than to familiarise yourself with technique and order of construction – is to understand how your fabric behaves. This wool frayed like a Big Fraying Monster and I had to significantly adjust my button hole welts to accommodate. This is not a lesson you want to learn on your jacket piece.
As well as the techniques mentioned above, I also added shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls, bought from English Couture. I really recommend these for any shoulder head that needs a bit of support. Who wants saggy shoulders?
I really enjoy my forays into tailoring. I might look into more lessons. My only issue with this practice go is that it’s slightly bled the energy from my coat make. Can I be bothered to make a second version? Time and persistence will tell!
With thanks to my lovely sister for taking the photos, on the way home from the pub!