Sewing a Jacket – Burda 7020

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I’ve made a winter jacket, from the Burda 7020 pattern!

I have plans to make a coat, but thought I’d make it up as a jacket first. Just, you know, to check fit and process. I was going to make a toile, but then thought, Oh, I have that wool taking up space in my stash. Why not just have a practice run through? Toiles are so very dull, aren’t they?

I chose this pattern because I wanted something really simple that just did the job it was meant to. Nice, big, cosy collar to keep off cold winds, buttoning up to the chin, pockets… Really didn’t need or want any more than that! And this jacket is soooo cosy, made from 100 per cent wool. When was the last time you checked the fibre content in a high street coat or jacket? Go on, have a look.

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There was a lot of work that went into this make not covered in the pattern instructions. The pattern would say, ‘Make buttonholes’ or suggest sleeve insertion with no mention of shoulder pads. For a truly successful make, you need a little more than that. Thank goodness for the Internet.

Construction Collage

Clockwise from top left: adding heavy weight fusible interfacing to facing and inside front of jacket, marking buttonhole placement with chalk; opening up rear of bound buttonholes;thread tracing placement of buttonholes and sewing closed the lips of final buttonholes; adding back stay

The fabric was kindly gifted to me by Tilly and the Buttons. It’s a really lovely wool with quite a loose weave, a navy base and a raised black diagonal stripe. I am a big fan of the combination of navy and black when it can be made to work. Warmer than a straight black, and so adaptable.

Burda 2070

I used my e-book to make the button holes, making sure to follow my own orders to have a practice go first. How glad I am! Practice button holes, first to last, in order of construction from left to right:

Practice Button holes

Part of the reason it’s so important to practice first – other than to familiarise yourself with technique and order of construction – is to understand how your fabric behaves. This wool frayed like a Big Fraying Monster and I had to significantly adjust my button hole welts to accommodate. This is not a lesson you want to learn on your jacket piece.

Bound-button-hole-ii

As well as the techniques mentioned above, I also added shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls, bought from English Couture. I really recommend these for any shoulder head that needs a bit of support. Who wants saggy shoulders?

Shoulder pads

I really enjoy my forays into tailoring. I might look into more lessons. My only issue with this practice go is that it’s slightly bled the energy from my coat make. Can I be bothered to make a second version? Time and persistence will tell!

Burda-7020With thanks to my lovely sister for taking the photos, on the way home from the pub!

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58 Responses to Sewing a Jacket – Burda 7020

  1. ooobop! says:

    That is one lovely, proper, forever jacket, Karen! Burda have some amazing patterns but I totally agree that the instructions are a little light on info! Beautiful photos too. x

  2. Caroline says:

    This is a beautiful jacket and it looks very chic. The colour/design of the fabric works very well with this pattern. I really like the big collar. Well done!

  3. Nicole says:

    Lovely jacket! It looks great on you. I love black with navy as well. I completely agree with sometimes the test run taking the sails out of the full project, but it looks great. It also looks like England is still having nice fall weather.

  4. Tanya says:

    This looks absolutely gorgeous on you. Your construction photos look terrifying though! How many hours do you think this took?

  5. Jane says:

    Now that is a really lovely jacket Karen and the added tailoring techniques have given it a very professional finish. Great work! Burning question….where did you get your gloves?! x

  6. Uta says:

    Lovely jacket, and so well made! I haven’t commented in a while, but I still enjoy your blog at lot. Also, you (and Ella!) look great in the pictures 🙂

  7. sewchet says:

    It looks fabulous – all those tailoring details add to the couture look, don’t they? Well worth the time and effort to make a coat proper. Just make it in a totally different colour and it won’t feel like you’re making the same pattern.

  8. Jenny Lester says:

    Gorgeous jacket Karen – everything you say so true, how many of us have made a “practise” garment only for it to be the “one and only”!!! As you say all the patience and effort put into the making does rather drain enthusiasm to start all over again even though the lessons learned would certainly make a second version so much easier. However all that being said your “trial” jacket will see you through numerous winters until you feel ready to embark on a longer version. You haven’t mentioned your lovely lining which you gave us a cheeky glance at, perfectly matching your gloves. You are like me I really love different linings – why do all coats and jackets seem to have dull matching lifeless linings!! Lovely to throw a garment over the back of a sofa in a coffee shop to reveal a gorgeous bright coloured or patterned lining. For northerners (and those who can’t visit TMOS – well not regularly – only managed 3 times this year!! ) – Leon’s fabrics in Chorlton currently have some gorgeous “suit” patterned linings.

  9. Jan Carr says:

    Blimey Karen you do do things properly AND take pictures!
    Jacket looks fab.

  10. Suzie says:

    Gorgeous! A beautifully made jacket that you must be so proud of. I love the internal progress photos, so thanks for sharing those.

  11. Philippa says:

    What a satisfying make this must have been. It’s gorgeous and so very much your style.

  12. It’s Devine! When people make coats I feel like saying congratulations on the birth of your new baby, as you can just see the work that went into making it!

  13. Claire says:

    This is a lovely jacket and broach is beautiful. xxx

  14. Fantastic jacket Karen! I love how well supported and firm the shoulders look, and the fact that you aligned the direction of raised-stripes of the fabric lips on the buttonholes to the main body fabric is a lovely polished touch too! Simply lovely 🙂

  15. fabulous jacket! Love your bound button holes, perfection!

  16. Sam says:

    Wow, this is so chic. Absolutely love the combination of stripes, spots and check. You’re rocking it.
    I totally agree with practising buttonholes. I learned this when I was 30 mins late to my Jane Austen celebration ball, because I was still sewing my regency frock in the bedroom of the B&B I was staying in, because the DAMN FABRIC was going all over the show. Practise, practise, practise.

  17. Hi Karen! Love your jacket! Perfect for the weather at the moment. I always seem to start coats in the autumn and then never finish before spring, I have several UFOs…

    Intrigued buy the idea of buying sleeve head materials on a roll…. Did you take any pictures of how you applied it? I’d be interested to know how that stuff works.

  18. missceliespants says:

    I LOVE this. It’s really really lovely. I like the structure and the collar and you are inspiring me to suck it up and try out some bound buttonholes.

  19. Fiona M says:

    Stunning jacket, well worth taking your time over it. Also love your spotty gloves!

  20. sallie says:

    This is absolutely fantastic! Well done with all the tailoring! All the extra time and energy paid off. The jacket is lovely. I hope you make a coat! Perhaps you just need to be inspired by the perfect wooly fabric…?

  21. lisa g says:

    Burda has some of the best coat and jacket patterns, but you just have to use other resources for directions! This jacket is beautiful, I love the fabric–well worth the time investment!

  22. It has come out just perfect. The sleeve caps, the buttonholes and collar, all the difficult parts, look perfect. Congrats!

  23. Lovely Karen! What a wonderful job you’ve done. I’m thinking of dabbling in a little tailoring myself, out of interest where on the internet did you find useful for tailoring tips? I have no knowledge of it what so ever so am feeling a bit unsure about where to start!

  24. robyn says:

    fantastic!

  25. Hey you – the whole thing is very well done (and nicely pressed) but your sleeve insertion is a thing of beauty. I am so proud! they look so good. Very cute jacket and looks like something that will get a lot of wear.

  26. Jenna says:

    Stunningly amazing! You look fab in it!

  27. Terri says:

    What beautiful work!

  28. maddie says:

    Karen, this jacket is fantastic! The fabric needed a simple pattern to let in shine. From the pictures, it looks like a corduroy!

  29. Michelle says:

    This is beautiful! You did an exception job on the lining and buttonholes. Your extra attention to detail really paid off!

  30. This jacket is perfect on you. Tailoring takes the extra time but is worth the effort. Did you use any soecific books on tailoring or just the internet? Xx

  31. Carolyn says:

    Absolutely gorgeous, Karen! If all this work went into your practice version, I’ll be very curious to see how the coat goes. It’s sure to be a stunner! Hope you get lots of wear out of this jacket. 🙂

    And yes, you’d be hard pressed to find a 100% wool coat on the streets. I’m always checking labels and am always surprised by how much synthetic fiber is in “high quality” RTW coats. What a shame! Whatever, that’s why we sew our own. 🙂

  32. First, my head is about to explode from the awesome details of your outfit, from the amazing jacket to the plaid pants and polka dot gloves. Now that it’s out of the way, I love this! I bought your ebook recently to use for a coat project I want to start in January. I’m planning to do a muslin and then was thinking about doing a more-similar-fabric kind of semi-muslin, and now I’m wondering if I should lift your idea and shorten it into a jacket for that version! Yours has certainly turned into a fantastic jacket. 🙂

  33. Sandra says:

    Beautiful! Great job.

  34. What a professional finish. It looks very expensive too. I’d be interested to see how you used your tailoring tools on the shoulders.

  35. senjiva says:

    I love it!!! And hallelujah for being able to have a jacket that actually fits ones bust, right?

  36. Nicole says:

    Everyone is making coats and jackets, and now I really want to start on my own! I’m nervous to do it…I have some brown plaid wool and beautiful navy lining, but I am afraid of messing it up! Also, I’m too lazy to do a muslin version of it. I guess I will have to get down to it eventually. Everyone’s coat pictures are making me jealous!

  37. stgilbert says:

    Ooh, this is gorgeous! I must say I love the whole 60’s vibe in the photoshoot – fantastic! And your polka dot gloves?! I die!

  38. redsilvia says:

    So cute and lovely with those new trousers. I have yet to make bound buttonholes but have read your ebook cover to cover and it’s super. It’s even a little cold here now so… Maybe soon.

  39. sewmanju says:

    Beautiful coat Karen! That wool makes it look very expensive. Not bad for a muslin 🙂

  40. Lauren says:

    It looks really lovely. That fabric has such great texture too!

  41. James says:

    You did such a great job with this jacket. I ordered your bound button hole tutorial and hope to give it a try in the spring some time once the holidays calm down.

  42. shaewc says:

    This is GORGEOUS!! I am in love…my goal is to make time to sew a truly tailored garment…I tend to go for the quick makes

  43. kinoethermes says:

    Wow! It looks amazing. You are kinda inspiring me to take sewing lessons!

  44. Ann says:

    I love all your projects and I really enjoy reading your blog. Your jacket is adorable. Nice job. I loved reading about your class learning to make your slacks. So cool.

  45. Great make! Is that wool still available somewhere? I know it was a gift but I thought you might know where to get something similar. Nice pics too

  46. liza jane says:

    Beautiful! And classic. This is one you’ll keep forever.

  47. tinygoldenpins says:

    Wow. I really love this outfit (and those colors) on you. You look so lovely and you remind me of someone from a film on a jaunt in the countryside. Just love it!

  48. amcclure2014 says:

    Lovely. Looks fun and classic. This will have a long life – and be warm too. I like these colours together, too. I’d like to do on tailoring course and hope to do some tailoring techniques on my next jacket – I’m currently making a casual jacket. A

  49. That is a keeper, I think navy is a better colour than a black jacket it just has an air of chic about it. Jo x

  50. Janet says:

    Have only just spotted this post, and really glad I did, as I bought the pattern a month ago. This will be my first coat – planning to start in the New Year. I have already had a go with your button hole ebook, and can heartily recommend it to your readers for demystifying this aspect of coat making. Now I need to order some bits from English Couture – thanks for the tip. But, I must be honest and say I am just a bit nervous to even begin the project at all. The green cashmere wool and Liberty silk lining look so perfect sat in my cupboard with the still unopened pattern on top! Help! Brave pill needed.

  51. Well done! This is just gorgeous. I love the in progress photos, too.

  52. gingermakes says:

    This is so lovely! It looks supremely wearable, especially in that nice warm blue/black. Well done!

  53. Pingback: Learn To Tailor – Some Resources | Did You Make That?

  54. Danielle says:

    What a beautiful jacket!!

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