Vogue 5098 – First Bodice Toile

Vogue ToileWork has commenced on the Vogue 5098. Step one, a bodice toile. The good news is that the pattern largely fits according to my body measurements – hoozah! The more challenging news is that there are more than a few tweaks to be made. That’s okay. That’s why I’m making a toile.

Toile AdjustmentsThe above pinned out section takes account of my hollow upper chest. I trace the adjustment (with one of my new Frixion pens!) and then pinch out the adjustment on the pattern piece.Toile Collage

pinching pattern pieceI also have quite significant tweaks to my back bodice. I’ll be cutting out and sewing a second bodice toile. Even then, I suspect more tweaks may be in order. Might I persuade my lace dress sewing teacher to let me try on my toile for her after a class? She’d be able to guide me on final adjustments.

It’s hard to adjust fit on your own – very hard. Why don’t fitting meet ups happen? I’ve been asking this question for a while. Maybe I should organise one.

vogue bodice toile

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46 Responses to Vogue 5098 – First Bodice Toile

  1. Barbarags says:

    If you organise a fitting meet up you will be inundated with takers. It is so hard to get some where to meet and fit. Our group resorts to changing into a garment in a cafe where we meet and emerging in a half made garment for correctional pinning and praying the pins stay in after we have taken the garment off and redressed for the street. Our members are scattered through out London but I have been lucky enough to meet a member who lives quite near me so we have agreed to be fitting buddies when we both can make a time to meet up in our homes.

    • Barbarags says:

      I should have said that the changing is done in the Ladies toilet, not in full view of customers!

    • piakdy says:

      Fitting meet-ups…I thought the same. I’d certainly be up for these. Maybe privacy is a barrier? Outside a sewing class environment it might feel weird having strangers help you with fitting?

    • piakdy says:

      Safety pins could be more secure alternative to pins if you need to preserve the tweak lines. Ordraw in the lines immediately if you’re not making wearache muslins.

  2. Miss V says:

    A brilliant idea – a fitting meet up! However, after being the largest (and oldest) in a fitting and alterations class at the local junior college, I’m just too self conscious for that. Imagine standing on a raised mirrored platform while a horrified but amused 19 year old measures you. I’m scarred for life.

    • piakdy says:

      Colleges are different. There are probably more mature or womanly figures amongst home sewers than in colleges. So don’t get discouraged or intimidated. A good fit will help you look better dressed whatever your size.

  3. V. Kathryn Evans says:

    Your sewign is the exact opposite of mine – so careful and considered. I need to take a few tips!

  4. Jackie says:

    I remember that my home made clothes were sewn as the result of being short of money.
    I used to make up Vogue patterns in the 1960s & the only adjustments I ever made were to the sleeve & hem lengths. No wonder so many people did say “did you make that?” – but not in admiration!
    I have learnt so much from blogs like yours Karen. My school sewing lessons covered making an apron, a gathered skirt & the basic techniques – my bound buttonholes were a masterpiece!
    My lovely neighbour helps with fitting now as she, like me, has had her enthusiasm rekindled by the GBSB.

  5. Heather jacks says:

    A fitting buddy is essential otherwise a lot of time is wasted undoing and resewing stuff. I use my husband as a fitting mate but he’s a tad over zealous!

  6. Lizzy says:

    A fitting meet up is am amazing idea! I’ve been completely flummoxed by trouser fitting, despite reading every guide out there, so it would be great to get advice from more expert sewists. I also admire your patience in creating accurate toiles – I’m often so keen to get to the wearing stage that I make silly mistakes!

  7. Fitting oneself is a recipe for frustration, explaining your ‘fit needs’ to ones other half is a nightmare…fit meet ups should happen in every town…superb idea!
    bestest daisy j x

  8. Sounds like you need to organise a “fit-buddy”, someone to call on when fitting is required! Good luck.

  9. sewbusylizzy says:

    I’ve been thinking about training the husband. He takes ok blog photos so I’m thinking after nearly three years he should branch out & broaden his skill set??

    • Laura says:

      Good luck with that, please share your method if you succeed! I tried but my OH just doesn’t have the patience. He is getting better at taking pictures, but the most he will say about fit is if something is too small / big and if something in the muslin just looks wrong.

    • Laura says:

      I’m quite proud that I taught my boyfriend how to pin two pieces of fabric together. He didn’t really understand that you had to put the pin in and out the same side again. He’s better now, although not exactly enthusiastic.

  10. Laura says:

    I know what you mean, fitting yourself is really quite hard. Fitting meetups work if you live close to others who sew. You’re in London though so that won’t be a problem 🙂

  11. lauriesannie says:

    Yes. I share Laura’s view. I don’t even know anyone who sews so the fitting issue is tricky. I have a mannequin that my SO made for me using the stuff that you put on broken bones. It is a pretty good likeness but it still ain’t me.

  12. Tanya says:

    I do use my partner to help fit (and I mean that in the loosest meaning of the word as I’m rubbish at it) but in his desire to help, he’s really quick to point out other defects that I hadn’t got round to fixing and I end up feeling really deflated. Having said that, I’m very impressed with his new command of sewing lingo so it’s lovely to see how it all rubs off! x

  13. Kimmy Rocket says:

    Having recently acquired my very first Vogue pattern (1159; a slinky Donna Karan number), I am captivated by your progress. I’m yet to take mine out of the packet, scared off by the countless bloggers who describe the horror of constructing 1159, but your attention to detail with this make is inspiring. Maybe the day I’m brave enough to make a start is sooner than I think…

  14. Katariina says:

    It is really frustrationg to try to fit a garment for yourself… I have tried and failed 😀 But I usually try to ask my mother or sister to fit for me and I will try to tell them what to do 🙂

  15. Jan says:

    We have just been discussing this same issue in our American sewing guild group. We want to make a volunteer list so you can call someone on the list and get together and help each other. Definitely need this. My husband tries very hard to help and does a little, but not the same as my friends in the guild! Good luck and so far you have done great by yourself!

  16. My husband always groans and moans when I ask him to pin anything. He is scared I will blame him if it is not right. But it is impossible to do alone! Yes to fitting meet ups!

  17. A local fit-buddy sounds a perfect solution 🙂

  18. Carolyn says:

    Getting there! I’m enjoying following the journey of this dress. All the work will be worth it when you have a fabulous finished garment! And to chime in, a fitting meet-up would be awesome (and somewhat hilarious). If I had a big house, I’d be inviting all the sewists in Boston to come over for cake and fitting. Wouldn’t that be delightful! 🙂

  19. Christina says:

    I must be the luckiest sewist in the world. I am a fitter in my job and I work in a big team of fitters and tailors so have always have someone on hand to help. Bad side is that once you’ve got something on that needs fitting you can be sure everyone pipes in with their completely different advice! Argh! Fitting issues!!!!!

  20. Judi Stansky says:

    Boston? Oh well. I was hoping for a sewing meet up here in NJ. I can’t be the only one who sews. I admire your patience, but that’s why your finished products look so lovely. Brava.

  21. Lorna says:

    when I eventually move back to Walthamstow I’ll be your fitting buddy! THat probably doesn’t help you much now though…. sorry! ‘ll be back in July for a couple of weeks, we could meet up then if that’s helpful….

  22. Cinderellis says:

    We have a little group of sewing friends in Oxford, and we’ve occasionally met up at each others’ houses to do a fitting session! They are so good, and if there’s a toile made up and ready, we’ll take a look and help with any issues. I don’t know what I’ll do if I move somewhere else! (Never mind who I’ll talk about sewing with all the time…)

  23. ellegeemakes says:

    My husband throws a small fit when I ask for his fitting help, but then he’s like a dog with a bone. He pins and reins and won’t give up until he’s sure he has it right (LOL). Sometimes, I’m ready to move on, but oh no! We can’t until he’s satisfied. I complain, but couldn’t do some of it without him, in spite of the fact that I have a dress form (sigh.) It’s hard! Your patience and perseverance is admirable.

  24. Ihavenosewingfriends says:

    Do you trace the markings you have made on the calico onto the pattern by placing the pattern paper over the markings? If so, is that how all adjustments are transferred from the toile to the patter? I have always been curious!

  25. Jude says:

    Great idea. I live in Mexico though…. Fitting + margaritas?

  26. Paola says:

    Years ago I did muslin courses on pattern review in which you posted your Muslin photos and the teacher posted back the fitting changes. And you repeated the process until the fit was perfected. Even though I live in rural Australia and the teacher was in Atlanta, it worked a treat. I’ve often thought that there is an online business opportunity for fitting along those lines. I’d definitely pay someone, as no one I know sews apart from my mum who lives a few hours away.

  27. Kara says:

    I would love a fitting meet-up! What a great idea. I have several half finished toiles waiting for someone to help me fit them.

  28. amcclure2014 says:

    My husband has, reluctantly, become pretty good at fitting – or at least describing the problems he sees. I attend a couple of sewing classes and when needed I can get the tutors there to have a look. Last time was today and tutor pointed out same things a DH – difference is, she went ahead and pinned the needed adjustments. I think he is gaining in confidence, though.

  29. I belong to a group that gets together once a month in a community centre to sew for an afternoon. Fitting help is often part of that, as is exchanging opinions on garment styling, and swapping techniques. It’s also good to have room to spread out for cutting out, and there are a couple of quilters who take advantage of the tables to layer quilts. And thern there is the camaraderie, being able to talk to people with a common interest.

    It may be a bit of a nuisance to pack together everything you need to work on a project, but that is counterbalanced by the benefits, and being out of the house means you are not tempted to do other things like housework and cooking, or spending time on the internet.

    I definitely recommend getting together with other sewists.

  30. Umbareen says:

    Apologies for not reading all the responses. Is there a ‘fitting’ meetup in London?

  31. Anne says:

    As a seamstress for the public, I’ve often thought about offering that possibility to other sewers.

  32. I am in LOVE with that pattern! I simply cannot wait to see this make come together!

  33. Pingback: How Does It Feel To Be An Over Achiever? | Did You Make That?

  34. Vikki says:

    Would you be willing to trace and send me the pattern?! I will pay 🙂 I can’t find this for sale anywhere and I NEED it!

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