Split bust dart on my Lilou dress
I’m currently in the process of making a bodice toile for a potential new make. It’s the Simplicity 2215. I was inspired to order this pattern after seeing it featured on The Village Haberdashery Instagram account. As if we didn’t already know, social media really helps a person spend money!
I liked the dress, but could see immediately that I’d need to toile the bodice. I often have fitting issues around the upper chest with excess fabric. Over the years, I’ve learnt that doing an FBA (full bust adjustment) really helps.
Whenever I do an FBA, I turn immediately to page 88 of The Colette Sewing Handbook. I don’t even read the instructions anymore, just look at the diagrams. Then I set to with my Swedish tracing paper, pencil, scissors and fashion curve.
An FBA can give you a very deep bust dart, encasing a big lip of fabric. Which can lead to a very pointy point on the tip of the dart. I prefer to avoid the bullet nipple look, so was very happy last summer to learn about the split bust dart. At its simplest you divide the largest section of your bust dart in two and open up your dart to make two darts. My FBA’d bust dart had a depth of 6cm. I split that into two darts, each with a depth of 3cm and about 1.5cm distance between the two darts. Keep the two darts level – you’re not altering the angle of either dart. Just spacing them out. (See above far right.)
If you can do an FBA, you can certainly apply a split bust dart. These techniques look head scratchy, but once you’ve successfully done one you’ll realise that nothing is as difficult as it first appears. Nothing! Okay, maybe opening a jar of olives without spilling brine down yourself. That’s still difficult…
Happy mid-week, everyone!