If sewing a coat or jacket, it’s a good idea to add a back stay. This:
- Stops fabric from stretching out across the shoulders
- Stabilizes the back of the coat
- Increases the longevity of the make
- Improves the line of your coat
Here is the back of my coat, with princess seams sewn. Fusible interfacing is attached to the shoulder and armhole area.
I trace around the shoulders and armholes, extending a few inches below the armholes to create a pattern piece for the back stay.
I cut the back stay out of muslin, using pinking scissors.
The pinked edge avoids a solid ridge at the bottom of the back stay that might show through to the right side of the fabric. The base of the shoulder stay is cut on a curve to allow the piece to move with the body. This bottom raw edge shan’t be sewn down, but shall hang loose.
The back stay is basted along all raw seams of the back, along the armholes, shoulders and neckline.
The rest of the coat or jacket can be constructed according to the sewing instructions, safe in the knowledge that you’ll never suffer from a baggy back.